Now that you have a better idea of what those common attachments are for, let’s look at just how to use your vacuum and attachments effectively on most of your household surfaces.

Carpeting:

Most carpeted surfaces will do well with just the vacuum. Areas that receive a lot of traffic such as entrances and main living spaces may need a more frequent vacuuming, but most carpeted areas can be vacuumed once a week.

Hard floors:

I vacuum all the floors in our house at least once a week (on Wednesdays) and sweep in between. This is my personal preference, but I find it easier to keep all the floors cleaner that way.

Stairs:

It can be difficult to maneuver a large vacuum along a stairway. I recommend using a canister vacuum or more portable vacuum if you have one. You can also utilize the length of your vacuum hose with a smaller attachment. Use the crevice tool along the edges and corner and use the upholstery tool for the tread if you needed. Most stairs can be vacuumed weekly unless they receive a high amount of foot traffic, in which case a more frequent job may be necessary.

Walls and Ceilings:

Use the circular dust brush attachment and start at the ceiling. You may need to add an extension to your attachment or use a step stool or small ladder in order to reach higher surfaces. Work your way down from ceiling to floor in a vertical motion as you vacuum. Most walls and ceilings benefit from a yearly cleaning unless you have a lot of dust in your home. In those circumstances, a spring and fall cleaning are ideal.

Blinds:

Blinds are often a dust magnet and may need a monthly swipe with the vacuum in order to keep the dust at a minimum. Use the dust brush attachment – my vacuum has vertical dust brush that works great for this, but any dust brush will work. Close the blind slats so they lie flat and vacuum. Reverse the blinds so that the slats are lying the other way and repeat. Repeat monthly or as needed.

Upholstered Surfaces:

Use the upholstery attachment on mattresses and fabric surfaces. Work in a horizontal or vertical motion from top to bottom. Use the crevice tool in the tight corners and seams. Use the dust brush on leather furniture to reduce any risk of scratching. The upholstery attachment is great for vacuuming mattresses.

Mattresses:

The vacuum cleaner is the best way to remove dust and dust mites from the surface of the mattress when you rotate your mattress. Make sure that the nozzle of your vacuum cleaner is clean and slowly vacuum all of the crevices. Follow up with the upholstery tool to vacuum the surface of your mattress.

Vents:

The dust brush tool works fabulously in those tricky vent slats for furnace and air conditioner runs. Dust seems to collect here especially during seasons where the furnace or air conditioner is run more frequently. With weekly touch ups you can minimize the buildup that is more difficult to clean effectively.

Baseboards:

Start with the crevice tool and get in the space between the baseboard and floor or carpet. Then use the dust brush attachment to run along the baseboards in a horizontal motion. A thorough monthly vacuuming of your baseboards is ideal.

When you utilize your vacuum and its attachments as designed, you will find your cleaning tasks to be more efficient.

How to Use Vacuum Cleaner Attachments

If you have a love/hate relationship with your vacuum cleaner you might want to start putting those attachments to use and get your vacuum cleaner working for you! Your vacuum cleaner may have more (or less) attachments, but these three tools are the ones I use the most and the ones included with most standard vacuum cleaners. Knowing what each tool can be used for will help you use your vacuum to its full potential.

crevice Tool: I use the crevice tool every single time I vacuum. It features a narrow nozzle which fits in tighter spots, such as under the stove, refrigerator and other large appliances. It also works well along the edge of baseboards and in hard-to-reach spots, such as vents. I also use this tool to pick up small pieces that the vacuum cleaner doesn’t grab right away.

Dust Brush: A dust brush attachment typically has a circular brush head and is especially effective at picking up dust and particles without scratching surfaces. It works particularly well on window blinds, shelves and wooden surfaces.

Upholstery Tool: The upholstery tool has a small, flat head and powerful suction, this attachment works well on fabric surfaces such as mattresses, couches, chairs and other fabric based pieces.

The Advantages of a Metal Roof

Are you interested in making your house more energy efficient, adding a beautiful and striking major design element, and never having to replace your roof again? Consider a metal roof. While the cost of a metal roof is significantly higher than a shingled roof, it will likely last a lifetime and it is practically maintenance-free. The practical advantages of a metal roof are that it makes your home safer in harsh weather and can significantly cut down on your energy bills. Aesthetically, a metal roof is versatile in design to complement many architectural styles, from a century old farmhouse to a contemporary home.

They look great! Very crisp and architectural and much easier to get excited about than asphalt shingles. Other than copper and slate, both very expensive, enameled standing seam roofs have the best longevity. From a long-term maintenance standpoint this is a plus. Additionally, standing seam can be used on low-pitched roofs, where shingles would not be appropriate. We use this material very frequently on porches and dormers, which tend to have lower pitches. Finally, there are some nice color options.

Because of the light color and reflectance, it helps to reduce heat build up in attics and finished rooms tucked into the roof. Metal roofing is also generally made from recycled content, and then, after its life, is itself recyclable.

Another attribute of metal roofing is that, it lends itself well to rain water harvesting. With its smooth clean surface, less filtering is required of water from a metal roof, compared to asphalt shingles which shed small particles, and possibly other chemicals.

While the initial outlay for a metal roof is more expensive than that of an asphalt shingled roof, a big percentage of the costs can be recouped, especially if you plan on staying in your house for a long time. While asphalt roofs will likely need replacing every 15-20 years, a metal roof can last a lifetime.

A metal roof is also much more energy efficient than an asphalt roof. It can decrease your energy costs significantly, especially if you live in a hot climate. Roofs that reflect rather than absorb heat will keep your air conditioner from having to work so hard. In some areas, it can even help save on homeowners insurance, and can increase your resale value.

Here's some basics to get you started on vacuum!!

*Dollar for dollar, a bagged vacuum, when compared to a bagless, will always:

1) Perform better (Actual quality of cleaning).

2) Be in service for much longer.

3) Cost less to repair and maintain (Often including consumables).

4) Filter your air better.

Virtually every vacuum professional in the business chooses a bagged vacuum for their homes, because we know what quality is.

Things you should do to maintain your vac, regularly:

1) Clear your brush roller/agitator of hair and fibers. Clear the bearing caps as well, if possible. (monthly)

2) Change your belts before they break. This is important to maintain proper tension against the agitator. (~ yearly for "stretch" belts)

3) Never use soap when washing any parts of your vacuum, including the outer bag, duct system, agitator, filters, etc. Soap attracts dirt, and is difficult to rinse away thoroughly.

Types of vacs:

1) Generally, canister vacs are quieter and more versatile than uprights are. They offer better filtration, long lifespans, and ease of use. They handle bare floors best, and work with rugs and carpets, as well.

2) Upright vacuums are used mostly for homes that are entirely carpeted. Many have very powerful motors, great accessories, and are available in a couple of different motor styles. Nothing cleans shag carpeting like the right upright.

3) Bagless vacs are available in a few different styles. They rely on filters and a variety of aerodynamic methods to separate the dirt from the air. In general, these machines do not clean or filter as well as bagged vacuums. They suffer from a loss of suction, and tend to clog repeatedly, if the filters are not cleaned or replaced often.

4) Bagged vacuums use a disposable bag to collect debris, which acts as your primary filter, before the air reaches the motor, and is replaced when you fill it. Because this first filter is changed, regularly, bagged vacuums tend to provide stronger, more consistent suction.

My last, best piece of advice is to approach a vacuum, like any appliance; Budget for the best one you can get. Buy one with idea you will maintain it, and use it for many years. And, for the love of Dog, do not buy from late-night infomercials or door-to-door salesmen! Stay out of the big-box stores, and visit your local professional who actually knows what they're talking about.

3931 W. Dixon Blvd., Shelby, NC, 28152..thats the address to get you to the best place to get your Vinyl Siding, Vinyl Windows, Metal Roofing and more and 704-434-9900 thats the number to call to get your FREE estimate today!!

103 Pine St., Shelby, NC, 28152, 704-471-9979!! Thats the location and phone number to where you need to get your vacuum fixed or trade it in on a new one!! Come on down today we're open from 10:00-5:00, can't wait to meet you!

5 Biggest Mistakes You Make Vacuuming

Vacuuming isn't rocket science (thank goodness!), but a little extra know-how can help you clean your home that much better.

1. Waiting until the bag is full to empty it

Even though some vacuums have "check bag" indicator lights, check the bag yourself and change it when it's three-quarters full. This keeps your vacuum's suction strong. And if you have a bagless vac, don't forget the dust cup — dirt collects there, too.

2. Vacuuming with a dirty filter

You won't effectively remove allergens if your filter is clogged with grime. You don't have to change the filter as often as the bag, but if the filter shows signs of wear, or if it's very dirty or torn, it's time to replace it. Change HEPA filters every six months or with every sixth bag change. Check the owner's manual or your brand's website for the recommendations for your model.

3. Not using the attachments

Dusting brushes and crevice tools are your best friends! They make above-the-floor cleaning much easier, and pick up dust and allergens from areas you might otherwise overlook, like upholstery, light fixtures, baseboards, and lampshades.

4. Rewinding your retractable cord without guiding it

Merely pressing on the rewind button and letting the cord snap in might send it off its track (which requires a service repair to fix). Instead, hold the cord in your hand as you press the pedal to wind it back onto the reel.

5. Not cutting out tangled hair and strings

A brush roll that doesn't turn, doesn't clean — it's that simple. Worse, the stress of tangled hair and threads can burn out the motor (not a cheap repair). To prevent this, unwind or snip away any tangles. Most vacuums have a brush roll that you can easily remove for more thorough cleaning.

For the Love of Vinyl Siding

Look beyond the never-to-be-settled debate over siding's merits/sins. It's an affordable, energy-conscious update. It can even look good.

As a building material, vinyl siding is relatively new — it was introduced in the late 1950s as a substitute for aluminum siding. But its reputation was tarnished in the early days when it cracked, faded, buckled, and sagged.

Ongoing changes in the product's chemistry and installation techniques have improved its performance and furthered its acceptance by builders and homeowners.

In fact, vinyl has captured 32 percent of the U.S. siding market for new homes, with no end in sight to its growing popularity. The reason, in part, is because it's often (but not always) cheaper than red cedar or redwood and takes less time to install.

To keep vinyl siding looking its best, it should be washed periodically to remove the mold, mildew, dirt, and chalky oxidation that collects on the surface. Use a soft-bristle brush and a bucket with a 30/70 mix of vinegar and water. (If that doesn't do the job, the Vinyl Siding Institute suggests mixing 1/3 cup laundry detergent, 2/3 cup powdered household cleaner, 1 quart liquid laundry bleach, and 1 gallon water.) Then just brush it on, working from the bottom up, and gently hoses it off. We discourage homeowners from using a power washer on their siding; the high-pressure equipment is likely to drive water behind the panels.

All vinyl siding will fade somewhat. After 10 to 15 years, the change can be significant. When that happens, or if you simply want to change its color, vinyl can be painted, as self-defeating as it may seem. (Check with the manufacturer first; many companies void the warranty if siding is painted.) Wash the siding first, and use latex paint, which will flex with the vinyl's movement. But don't count on changing a pale-yellow house to hunter green; dark colors absorb more heat than lighter ones and can cause panels to expand too much and buckle. (For that very reason, vinyl's color palette is limited to lighter shades.)

Why is my vacuum belt stretching, shredding or breaking?

Here are a few things you will need to check before putting on a new belt. If any of the following is true in your case, a new belt may not take care of the problem.

OBJECT STUCK IN BRUSHROLL AREA:

If you are vacuuming and any object like a small rock - toy - cord - clothing - loose carpet etc. gets stuck in the brushroll area you may smell burnt rubber and see smoke coming out of your vacuum... TURN THE VACUUM OFF IMMEDIATELY AND UNPLUG IT FROM THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET! Turn the vacuum over and look at the brushroll area and then remove the object. Note the belt itself will be hot.

EXCESSIVE HEAT FRICTION:

Upon closer inspection you may notice that the old belt may be very loose and/or tacky. That's because the old belt has been stretched out of it's original shape by excessive heat friction. This happens normally in about 3 to 6 months of use, but it also can happen very quickly when an object gets stuck in the brushroll area and the vacuum is left on or when the brushroll height is too low.

When the belt is permanently stretched out of shape it will not turn the brushroll at the proper speed when it comes in contact with the carpet. You will hear the brushroll slow down or even stop spinning when it is lowered onto the carpet. You might even smell burnt rubber and see smoke coming out of your vacuum... TURN THE VACUUM OFF IMMEDIATELY AND UNPLUG IT FROM THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET.

BRUSHROLL HARD TO SPIN:

Check the spin on the brushroll. Make sure that the 2 bearings or bushings on each end of the brushroll are clean and lubricated. Without a belt on the brushroll it must be able to spin freely several times on it's own with the flip of your finger, otherwise you will burn up a newly installed belt fairly quickly. If after cleaning and lubricating the bearings/bushings on each end it still does not spin freely, the brushroll will need to be replaced with both a new brushroll and a new belt.

BRUSHROLL HEIGHT TOO LOW:

Your vacuum will operate best when the vacuum is turned on and the spinning brushroll is then lowered to a point where it just comes in contact with the carpet and no lower. Running the vacuum at a lower height setting than this will only wear the belt out faster and cause the vacuum's electric motor to run hotter.

We are a very proud distributor of Vinyl Siding, Vinyl Windows, New Construction Windows, Metal Roofing and Accessories, plus much more...The goal of our company is to provide quality products at an affordable price and to offer excellent friendly service, FREE estimates just call 704-434-9900

Another Tuesday here at Shelby Vacuum..we're open and ready to help your vacuum feel better!!..M-F, 10:00-5:00...We sell the BEST and fix the REST!! 103 Pine St., Shelby, NC, 28152 704-471-9979

How to Keep a Vacuum Cleaner Smelling Fresh

It's a given that your vacuum cleaner should help your home smell better, not worse -- but if the appliance itself begins to smell bad, it will release its foul odor all over your home every time you use it. Odors in vacuums can have several causes, from moldy coffee grinds in the bag to pet hair clogging the works. You can prevent the machine from smelling bad simply by keeping its insides clean, and if you want to release a fresh scent each time you vacuum, you can do so with minimal effort or expense.

1

Change the bag if your vacuum uses them. With foul-smelling vacuum cleaners, stinky bags are often the culprit. If you have a bagless model, empty the canister and clean the filters in soapy water. Allow the filters to dry completely before you reassemble the machine.

2

Disassemble the vacuum if the machine still has a bad smell. Look for blockages in the works. If you have pets, pet hair might be clogging the intake valves and causing a bad smell. Remove any blockages you find.

3

Mix a solution of baking soda and water. Clean the vacuum's canister, hose and filters with it, then rinse them with water. Dry plastic or metal items with a clean cloth and allow the filters to air dry. Reassemble the vacuum.

4

Insert a dryer sheet or pieces of orange peel into the new vacuum bag through the hole that attaches the bag to the vacuum. If you have a canister model without bags, stash the sheet or orange peel in the filter cavity. When you use the vacuum, it will release the fresh scent all over your home.

5

Sprinkle orange or vanilla extract onto a paper towel as an alternative. Tear up the towel and vacuum it up. You can also sprinkle ground cinnamon or ground potpourri directly onto the floor and vacuum as usual. Any of these options will add a fresh scent to your vacuum and your home.

Things You Will Need

-Vacuum bags

-Soapy water

-Baking soda

-Cloth

-Dryer sheets or orange peel

-Paper towel

-Orange extract, vanilla extract, ground cinnamon or ground potpourri